Michael Richardson
This morning, we awoke to frozen helmets and dew dripping from our tents. It got down into the 30s last night but as Usher mentioned in the previous post, we felt nice and cozy in the tent village between kind-spirited neighbors. Another consequence of the cold was that I got to try my new favorite candy—Charleston Chew—in its more toothsome, frozen form. Yes, I had candy for breakfast this morning. While our helmets finished thawing, we tried our best to shake the hurt from our legs, but as I always say—“there’s nothin’ to it but to do it”—so we got to pedaling.
Morning frost on Usher’s bike at our Yellowstone Lake campground
I had almost forgotten we were still in Yellowstone when we passed another series of fumaroles, filling our nostrils with sulfur dioxide. I was more than happy to endure the smell in exchange for the incredible view we got around Yellowstone Lake—and I can’t say I’m too proud of my scent either these days. We passed a few more bison and marmots before turning a corner into telephoto terminus. There were probably 100 people parked along either side of the road and after triangulating their camera lenses, we spotted it—a Grizzly bear. Two of ‘em in fact! We watched them strut along the hillside for a little while and then carried on. In addition to the wildlife, we’ve been incredibly lucky with the fair weather throughout the park. A ranger told us about a biker who came through just two weeks ago and nearly froze in the wind and snow.
Michael rides by a fumarole along Yellowstone Lake
‘Telephoto terminal’ in Yellowstone National Park
After a steep climb up from the lake (8,500’), we double checked our straps and launched into our favorite downhill of the trip (we say that every time). Twelve minutes of uninterrupted momentum took us from snowy peaks all the way down to craggy pine tree glades. Even better was the crenelated stone wall guiding us down the pass—far more scenic than your typical metal guardrail.
Michael approaches the Sylvan Pass descent
We reconvened at the bottom and exited the park as a group. I’ll definitely be coming back soon to see Old Faithful and to find those elusive moose we’ve been hearing about. Just outside the park, we stepped into Pahaska Tepee for some chocolate milk and to ask what we should do in Cody for our rest day. Funny enough, they told us the exact same thing our Warm Showers host did—“you gotta see the nightly rodeo and the Buffalo Bill Museum!” More on that later.
Pit stop in Pahaska Tepee, just East of the Park
Not fifteen minutes down the road, the landscape changed again and we were staring up at the Absaroka Mountains. We were entranced by the steep, volcanic spires and the red hue that seemed to glow from the landscape. So many cool cracks and crevices too, I couldn’t help but think about all the climbing routes packed into this valley.
The group rides through the Shoshone National Forest (nearby Absaroka Range not pictured)
The remaining 30 miles after lunch were spent battling a headwind and UV index of 10 but at least the hills were behind us. I’m always keeping track of what items make it into my small handlebar bag for the day because that is prime real estate on the bike. Some days it’s winter gloves or my knee band. Today it was SPF 100 sunscreen and my last two tortillas.
Michael leads the group through a relentless headwind along the Buffalo Bill Reservoir
Our host in Cody warned us about a series of tunnels just before reaching town that could be dangerous for cyclists and suggested we talk to the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center about a detour. They knew right away what we were after and opened the gates to a service road through the canyon. With no cars to worry about, I followed Usher in full confidence through the winding turns and mini tunnel just below the dam. Easily one of the most dramatic miles I’ve pedaled on a bicycle.
The HW 14 tunnel versus the secret canyon bypass
At the edge of Cody, we passed an arena with a big sign that read “RODEO EVERY NITE: JUNE, JULY, AUG”. We leave town May 31st. We drowned our sorrows in some tasty Mexican food before realizing we had 6 miles left to make it to our host. In pain, either from full stomachs or laughter, we trudged up the hills out of town and were greeted by John and Brenda. John is a seasoned bicycle tourist and is generous enough to host about ten groups every year that pass through Cody. They showed us to our guest suite, complete with showers, beds, and chickens roaming the backyard. If there was such thing as a six-star hotel, in my mind this would be it. Looking forward to fresh eggs for breakfast and exploring downtown Cody tomorrow!